First-Aid Kit Essentials – Simon Constable’s Vets Top Picks!

Do you have a First-Aid Kit for your horse at-hand should a time come of needing one? There’s no doubt every equestrian strives for their horse to be and remain safe, sound and healthy, so stock-up on these First-Aid essentials now.

It can feel like our horses are most likely to sustain an injury when we are least prepared/expecting it, right? Well, we at Naylors recommend putting together a First-Aid Kit for your tackroom in case of an emergency!

Don’t get caught out & stock up on first aid items for treating minor to more serious injuries.

Why Every Equestrian Should Have An At-Hand First-Aid Kit

  • If your horse endures any sort of injury, we suggest contacting your vet as soon as possible. However, having a First-Aid Kit may make your’s, your horse’s and your vet’s life a little easier. Depending on the severity of the injury, your vet may have more high-risk emergencies to attend too first. And so they may ask you to see to the cut/incident whilst you wait for them to arrive.
  • Should your horse have mud-rash or sweet-itch, endure a minor cut/graze, or have thrush or a hoof bruise; your First-Aid Kit will be a saving grace! Some cases may not require emergency vet attention, or you are following your vets advice/guidance on mending an injury/ailment. Remember – you can’t always guarantee a store will be open at the time the incident happens. So, having these stocked up will be a life-saver (not literally!).

  • There are many risks when it comes to travelling your horse. Whether that’s whilst your horse is being transported or during your outing. At many organised days-out there may be a first-aid kit around. However, it is always best to bring your own with you just in case!

  • Each season may bring a new obstacle when it comes to preventing injuries/ailments. From swelling to thrush/mud rash during winter, to sweet-itch, turnout cuts & allergies in Summer. Having the year-round necessities is a great place to begin when building your kit. As a new season comes around, it is best to pick up the products for injuries/ailments that are more likely to occur.

Simon Constable’s Top 5 Tackroom First-Aid Essentials

Knowing where to start can be difficult, because frankly, we’re not all professionally trained veterinarians. And so we spoke to expert Simon Constable, from Simon Constable’s Equine Vets, to give us a helping hand in collating our own, at-home First-Aid Kit!

Here are his top 5 first-aid kit recommendations every horse owner should have in their tackroom:

Gold Label® Triscrub

Gold Label® Triscrub

“Chlorhexidine is an essential part of the first aid kit because of its anti-bacterial properties for treating skin conditions such as mud-rash. It can also be used to wash our own hands after mucking out but should never be used directly onto fresh wounds because it can be very irritant.”

NAF NaturalintX Cotton Wool

NAF NaturalintX Cotton Wool

“Cotton wool should always be used under bandages to prevent skin reactions as a result of the bandage becoming too tight. It provides essential padding and protection for swollen legs and, in conjunction with dressings, to protect wounds.”

NAF Naturalintx Hoof Poultice

NAF Naturalintx Hoof Poultice

“Foot abscesses are an all-too-common occurrence with horses because of the damp, muddy environment they inhabit. Poulticing a foot abscess is vital to drain pus and remove the infection. A hot, wet poultice is the best option to draw infection but can be placed dry in some situations.”

Trilanco Latex Examination Gloves

Trilanco Latex Examination Gloves

“An essential part of any first-aid kit, gloves can be used for mucking out, examining or bathing wounds, or applying creams and ointments. Many ointments or creams contain drugs or substances likely to cause undesirable effects or reactions so latex gloves are an important part of keeping you safe.”

Digital Thermometer

Digital Thermometer

“Monitoring you horse’s temperature is now a normal part of equine management especially with outbreaks of infectious diseases such as Strangles and Equine Influenza having been in the news. Obviously not every horse is cooperative when the end of the thermometer is placed in their bottom so it is important to take care. Normal horse temperature is 37.5-38.0 Celsius.”

More Necessities For Your First-Aid Kit

You can never have too many First-Aid products at bay in your tackroom; because you can predict when an incident will happen! Here are some more added-extra necessities for your Tackroom’s First-Aid Kit:

VetSet Wraptec Cohesive Bandage Red

VetSet Wraptec Cohesive Bandage Red

The Wraptec Cohesive Bandage is a self-adhering bandage that will not constrict and is an economical choice for support bandages and routine dressings.

Westgate Labs Worm Count Kit Single

Westgate Labs Worm Count Kit Single

The Westgate Labs Worm Count Kit contain everything you need to perform a worm count on your horse; simply take your sample and return it to Westgate Labs with the pre-paid returns envelope.

Gold Label® Purple Spray

Gold Label® Purple Spray

Gold Label® Purple Spray is a anti bacterial chlorhexidine spray that can be used on minor cuts and grazes and help improve/reduce the chances of thrush.

Woof Wear Medical Hoof Boot

Woof Wear Medical Hoof Boot

The Woof Wear Medical Hoof Boot is a close fitting medical boot that has been designed to keep wounds, poultices and dressings clean when in the stable and during turnout.

NAF Wound Cream

NAF Wound Cream

Offering a natural first aid cream, NAF Wound Cream helps support the healing of minor cuts and wounds and comes in a convenient tube for an easy to use, hygienic application which can be applied directly to the wound.

Ensuring products remain hygienic, in-date and stocked up regularly is important. The best way to do this is check your products every 2 weeks and store them in a concealed box.

Already have a First-Aid Kit in your tackroom? Let us know which products/items you have and why in the comments below!

For more information on Simon Constable’s Vets visit or call them on 0161 724 4503.

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Laminitis: Prevention and Treatment of Laminitis Part 2

Once you have been able to identify and understand laminitis (to find out more read Part 1 of this article series), you have a much better chance at rehabilitating your horse/pony and helping them recover.

Many owners start to worry about this serious condition when the weather gets hotter and the grass becomes more lush. However as long as all preventative measures are taken and the horse is fed on the correct diet, the risk factors for contracting laminitis decreases.

The Treatment Options Available

Laminitis Part 2: Shires Flexi Grazer Muzzle Navy

  • Call a vet as soon as you think you have spotted the symptoms of laminitis. Or the horse has relapsed- they can advise treatment plans, take x-rays and provide pain relief
  • Move the horse/pony to a deep bedded stable to provide the hooves with support
  • Remove any high sugar feeds/treats/licks
  • Feed a diet suitable for a laminitic
  • Investigate whether the horse has another underlying issue such as Cushings
  • Use a paddock suitable for laminitics with less grass and possibly a grazing muzzle
  • Add supplements to the diet which will support the horse/pony’s recovery, such as NAF Five Star Laminaze which can be used throughout the year to help prevent future bouts
  • Remedial shoeing- your farrier can advise you on the types of shoeing available, such as heart-bars
  • Equally the horse may be barefoot- take the advice of your trimmer on balancing the foot properly, possible use of pads or boots
  • If feet are in poor condition, use a hoof care supplement throughout the year to help grow healthier hooves during recovery like Equimins Hoof Mender Powder
  • Possible surgery may be needed, if an acute case has foundered
  •  NSAIDS can be given on recommendation of vet for pain relief and reduction of inflammation

Preventative Measures

So how do we prevent the risk of our horses/ponies getting laminitis?

    • Avoid turnout during high starch estimates in the grass.
    • Continually monitor weight throughout the year- consider learning about Body Condition Scoring. Monitor your horse’s diet carefully. Feed in accordance to their workload and type.
    • Dieting horses/ponies should be given 1.5% of their body weight in food- this includes grass, hay and any hard feed given.
    • Feed little and often to mimic the horse’s natural feeding behaviour- do not leave for long periods of time without food, even if on a diet. Consider double netting or soaking/steaming hay so the horse/pony can eat for as long as possible during the day.
    • Never starve the horse/pony- this can lead to serious conditions such as hyperlipaemia which may be an even worse outcome than before.
    • Avoid feeding hard feed at all unless absolutely necessary- most horses can thrive on a forage only diet.
    • If you are going to use feed for condition, consider something like Fibre-Beet which is a high fibre, low starch mash with added alfalfa to help digestibility and put weight on without fizziness/extra sugar (Available in-store only).
    • If your horse needs to put on weight, look into feeding high oil foods rather than high starch, as horses actually utilise oil better and it has less health risks for them- such as linseed oil.
    • Maintain a good exercise regime– do not allow the horse/pony to become overweight.
    • Maintain a healthy farrier/foot trimming regime.
    • Do not make rapid changes in the diet.
    • Avoid unnecessary trauma to the feet e.g. minimising trotting on the roads.
    • Consider a hoof supplement which contains biotin, such as Farriers Formula or NAF Five Star PROFEET, to encourage healthy hoof condition.

      Body and Weight Scoring:

» Read the full article on Weight and Body Scoring Here.

It is always better to prevent laminitis than have to cure it. If left untreated, laminitis could cause permanent damage which may result in either lifelong lameness or possibly euthanasia. By following the correct guidelines of feeding and management, your horse may be at less of a risk of coming down with this devastating illness; once a horse has suffered with laminitis, it will be more prone to it for the rest of its life.

Do you have any experience of dealing with Laminitis? What was the outcome, and how do you try to manage it?

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Laminitis: Understanding the Condition Part 1

Laminitis is a painful and debilitating condition which involves the sensitive laminae that attach the pedal bone to the hoof capsule within the horse/pony.

This is an extremely common ailment that affects many horses in the UK – and can be a potentially lethal diagnosis. It is therefore imperative that you can recognise the signs and symptoms before the condition worsens.

What is Laminitis?

What Exactly Is Laminitis?

The hoof wall is lined by a network of sensitive tissues termed ‘laminae’. Laminae is the only means of support of the pedal bone inside the capsule. These have a constant flow of blood, and are responsible for the majority of weight bearing processes.

When a horse/pony contracts laminitis, the blood flow to the laminae is reduced which results in inflammation and swelling of the tissues. This can cause excruciating pain, depending on the severity or type of laminitis incurred.

Did you know… Laminitis can affect the horse for the rest of their life?

In a mild case of laminitis, a horse may become footsore and experience discomfort. In a severe case, the pedal bone can sink and rotate due to the inability of the damaged laminae to support the bone (known as ‘founder’). This action, combined with the pulling of the bone from the deep digital flexor tendon, can cause the pedal bone to actually protrude from the sole of the hoof. A horse with this scale of laminitis is known as a ‘sinker’; which can be an irreversible and fatal outcome.

Any horse, pony or even donkey can be affected by laminitis, either chronically or acutely, usually in the front feet. However it can is some cases affect any/all hooves.

Recognising the Signs and Symptoms of Laminitis

To prevent or reduce the risk of laminitis getting worse, if you spot any of the below signs we suggest seeking advice from your vet immediately.

Mild laminitisMild laminitis

  • Increased digital pulse- a pulse found by applying pressure to the left side of the horse’s fetlock at the lower edge (ask vet if unsure)
  • Stretched white line of hoof
  • Shortening of strides
  • “Pottery” on hard or stony ground
  • Hoof rings

Moderate LaminitisModerate Laminitis

  • Unwillingness to walk or pick up feet
  • Visibly lame especially when moving on a circle or on a hard surface
  • Changed hoof angle
  • Shifting weight from foot to foot
  • Strong digital pulse
  • Slightly increased heart and respiration rate to the norm
  • Abnormal stance- possibly leaning back on hind feet to relieve pressure on front feet

Severe LaminitisSevere Laminitis

  • Total refusal to move or pick up feet
  • Lying down displaying an unwillingness to get up
  • Symptoms similar to colic- sweating, high heart/respiration rate
  • Uneven distribution of weight on their hooves

Chronic Vs Acute

For those suffering acute laminitis, symptoms generally come on very suddenly and are severe. Acute attacks may make the horse more susceptible to laminitis in the future.Those with chronic laminitis will show signs of ongoing symptoms that are usually because of a previous ‘acute’ attack. A horse’s hoof may have rings around the hoof wall. This typically indicates experiencing laminitis previously.

Risk Factors and Causes of Laminitis

High Starch Diets

Horses are natural hind-gut fermenters which means that they digest carbohydrates through the use of bacteria in their digestive tract. Any high starch diet can cause rapid hindgut fermentation, which is the overloading of the tract with sugars which results in large amounts of lactic acid being released. This acidic environment in the gut can kill the healthy bacteria living in the gut, leading a chain reaction which can trigger laminitis.


Grass is an important factor in the contraction of laminitis- a survey in the UK shows that 61% of laminitis cases occur in animals at pasture. It is the first factor that many owners worry about, but contrary to common knowledge; it is not just the quantity of grass that is important in the development of laminitis. Many horses now graze on pasture which was once used for cattle, which may have been heavily fertilised and thus unsuitable for horses and ponies.

Eating too much sugary grass can be a massive risk factor for laminitis at the typical time of spring. However, owners not realising the risk factor for laminitis in autumn or possibly winter (times of frost) is highly common.

Poor pasture can also have a contributing factor to laminitis, such as grass which is stressed (i.e.overgrazed or after an overnight frost). As it can contain high levels of ‘fructan’ – another form of starch. This helps to explain the cases of laminitis seen in horses and ponies kept on ‘starvation’ paddocks or turned out in cold or frosty weather.

Overweight horses and ponies

Overweight horses are common in the UK, as many owners often overfeed their horse/ponies due to various influences. For example; show judges, peer pressure and being too generous with feed/treats. Obesity is risk factor for laminitis. This is because fat, particularly in the stomach area, is hormonally active. Obese horses means they are putting more strain on their hooves from carrying the weight.

» Read our blog – Weight and Body Scoring – to find out how to check your horse is at it’s correct and best weight.

Pre-existing conditions such as Cushings Disease and Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS)

Pre-existing conditions such as Cushings Disease and Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS)

Cushings Disease is a condition associated with an abnormality in the pituitary gland in the horse. Many horses with Cushings do end up suffering from laminitis. EMS is a disorder in which horses (particularly ponies) have an unusual insulin response to the sugars in grass, which can again be a risk factor for laminitis. Both conditions are commonly seen in overweight horses, which both go hand-in-hand to increasing the risk of laminitis.


Such as when travelling, when separated from the herd for long periods of time or in foal. 

Concussion of the Hooves

Fast or prolonged work on hard surfaces can also lead to chronic or recurring bouts of laminitis, such as jumping ponies in summer, racehorses on firm ground and improper shoeing.

By quickly identifying the warning signs, the horse may be treated quickly and efficiently by a vet before they progressively worsen.
To discover the treatment and prevention, read Part 2 of this blog series.

Have you spotted the signs of laminitis in your horse or pony? What were the first symptoms your horse experienced, and how have you coped with it since?

Additional Reading and Helpful Guides:

British Equine Veterinary Association General Guide

World Horse Welfare 

Images courtesy of:

The Laminits Site

World Horse Welfare

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Show Ring Skills – The Perfect Plaits

With competition season almost upon us we’ve been finding out how to create the perfect plait each time! Any seasoned competitor will tell you, plaiting is not always the easiest of task at hand – so it’s best to get practising first!

For those of us lucky enough to own native horses and ponies, it is generally expected for them to be turned out in their natural state. Thankfully, this means no (or little) thinning, trimming, pulling or plaiting. For the rest of us however, plaits are a must, whether you’re taking part in in-hand showing, or ridden showing. And although it isn’t mandatory to plait your horse for show jumping, dressage or eventing, it is usually the done thing!

The ultimate optical illusion plaits are all about highlighting your horses strengths (and detracting from his flaws). From running to hunter plaits there are a whole range of types to choose from, each with a different purpose whether fashionable or functional. The most common type accepted in the majority of disciplines are hunter plaits.

What You’ll Need:

Top Tip 1 – Have a grooming box or stand at hand so you can see up and over your horse depending on your horse’s height!

Before Plaiting:

Wash & Brush

The first step to creating the perfect plait is to wash away dirt and debris. Once clean, brush through with a mane and tail brush or a fine toothed comb. Having a clean, knot free mane will make it much easier to work with. 

Top Tip 2 – At this point, only use specific plaiting sprays and avoid mane and tail sprays as this will make the mane too soft to grip. The softer the mane is the less grip you will have. Plaiting sprays will make the mane soft but also tacky so you can grip the mane tightly!

Pulling & Thinning

Time for a tidy up! Now your horse’s mane is clean and knot-free you’ll be able to get a better idea of it’s length and thickness.

If your horse is in need of a haircut then the Solo comb and Solo Rake are about to become your new best friends! And are an easier and more gentler approach than traditional pulling combs. If you own a horse with pink skin or sensitive skin, these may be the best option for your horse.


Top Tip 3: Your horse’s mane should have an odd number of plaits. Generally, there should be nine – 13 plaits in the mane and one in the forelock.

If you’re unsure about the number of plaits your horse will need the best indication is his type and weight. Small delicate plaits are the norm for finer horses. Larger more substantial plaits are usually seen on heavier horses.

How To Section Evenly

The best way to create consistency in size of your plaits is to firstly separate the mane into nine, 11 or 13 sections. (Securing with a plaiting band). Once you’ve done this, use a comb and wrap a plaiting band around the bristles to an average size of one of your sections. This will be an indicator on how to ensure all your plaits are equal in size.


Step 1 – Take the first section of your horses mane and apply plaiting spray. Work the spray through the hair to dampen it, reduce any stray ends and make it easier to grip.

Step 2 – Using your fingers split the hair in to three equal pieces. To plait the mane cross over the pieces ensuring that you’re pulling as tightly as possible all the way down.

Step 3 – Once you reach the bottom of the plait you’ll need to secure it in place. If you’re in a rush, it’s easiest to do this with a plaiting band. For a neater and more professional finish it’s better to use a needle and thread.

Step 4 – To secure the plait with thread bring the needle up through the bottom of the plait. Sew around the plait and then back through the centre, repeat this once more to ensure it’s secure. To keep it neat and tidy twist any remaining stray hairs and fold them underneath the plait. Then repeat the process of sewing it in place.

Step 5 – Now that the bottom is secure take the needle and pass it inside and through the top of the plait from the underside. This will the fold the plait in half. Once you’ve reached the bottom take the needle and pass it back through the top of the plait to create a small ball. If your horse’s mane is quite long and it requires another folder, re-fold the plait again to create a small ball.

Step 6 – To hold the ball in place continue to pass the needle and thread through the plait repeatedly until it’s secure. Once your happy, run the thread back through your final stitch before trimming off any excess. You can then repeat this process with the remaining sections of hair. If your plait looks to plate and wide, you can wrap your thread around the plait to create more of a ball shape.

Step 7 – Once you’ve plaited all the way up the mane, finish off with plaiting spray to secure into place.

Plaiting The Forelock

Once you have completed your mane plaits, it’s now time to tackle the forelock! For the best and neatest result, it is best to french plait your horse’s forelock before sewing into place. However, if you’re unable to french-plait, just simply plait like usual ensuring all the hairs are tightly together. Then, again, sew the forelock the same way as you did with the mane.

Keeping Everything In Place!

Now, this may be the trickiest bit – keeping your horse’s plaits in place!

It is inevitable to ensure our horse’s plaits will stay in overnight. So if possible it is best to plait your horse’s mane in the morning, or just before the competition. (So make sure to give yourself plenty of time to plait!) If however, you are plaiting the evening before the competition, use a hood to keep the plaits flat and protected.

Top Tip 4 – If your horse likes to get up to all sorts during the night, give them something to keep them occupied! The best way to do this is with a treat ball or haynet ball.

And voila! Your horse is now perfectly turned-out for your big competition! If you have any of your own top-tips, please share in the comments below.

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9 Steps To Growing Your Horse’s Mane Back After Winter | Mane Loss

Winter is undoubtedly a difficult time to keep our horse’s looking their best. During these colder months it’s highly common for our horse mane to thin, become brittle and break off. This may be due to our horse’s scratching their mane due to heat-irritation or occur mane loss due to rug-rubbing.


If sadly it’s too late and your horse is missing parts of their mane, we’re here to help you grow, convert the damage and restore those luscious locks!  These 9 simple steps will put your horse’s mane on the road to re-growth in no time at all.


1. Find The Root Of The Problem


Like humans, horses are also more receptive to being itchy when they are too hot. The most common cause of mane loss during winter is from a horse being too hot. During winter we usually use heavier rugs for our horse to keep them warm. However, if you are over-rugging your horse this may irritate their skin and cause a heat-rash – resulting in your horse to rub and scratch leading to mane loss / damage.


StableLine Lice Lotion SprayLice
Another cause of a rubbed-mane is from mites and/or lice in your horses coat, feathers and mane. When the mites bite the horse’s skin, it irritates the horse and encourages them to itch to get rid of the soreness. If you suspect your horse has lice, use a lice treatment/shampoo to get rid of them and wash your horse’s belongings. Use StableLine Lice Lotion Spray RRP £9.50 to banish the lice!



A Clipped Horse
During winter many owners clip their horse to ensure they don’t sweat as much when rugged and when ridden, as their coats usually grow excessively during the colder months. Another reason many owners clip their horse is to encourage a clean and fresh coat re-growth for the new year. However, when a horse is clipped, things are easier to reach their skin and irritate them. Another reason your horse may itch after being clipped is they have been irritated by the clipping-oil or they have been cut slightly too short near the skin – causing a graze/irritation.



Z-Itch Sweet Itch Lotion

Not-So-Sweet.. Sweet-Itch
Sweet-itch is most common during during Spring and Summer when the temperatures rise, and is mild or non-existent throughout the colder months. Caused from flies and midges, sweet-itch is typically a seasonal condition, and so, mane loss during winter is rarely caused by sweet-itch. If however your horse is excessively itching their body and tail too – sweet-itch may be the culprit!


»You can read our blog ‘There’s Nothing Sweet About Sweet-Itch’ here for more information!

If your horse has previously suffered with sweet-itch during the warmer months, you may find they are itching during winter as their skin is healing. When the skin heals, it can sometimes be flaky and dry causing the skin to be itchy! Browse our sweet-itch selection here.


2. Choosing The Right Rugs


WeatherBeeta ComFiTec 210D Channel Quilt 110g Light-Medium Weight Standard Neck Stable Rug Navy/Silver/RedChoose a Standard Neck Rug Instead.
Like mentioned earlier, the most common cause of mane loss during winter is from over-heating typically caused by being over-rugged. This can lead to your horse itching their neck/mane. Many equestrians believe using a combo-neck rug will protect the horse’s mane from falling out, but this is not the case. A horse is more likely to itch and rub their mane when they have a combo-neck rug on. 
If your horse needs a neck rug due to being clipped, you can either swap out the neck-piece for a lighter-weight option or only use overnight (or when necessary).


Check The Fit
A highly common factor to mane loss is from poor fitted rugs. If your rug is slightly to big, it may rise up the neck/mane causing further mane loss risks. However, should you rug be too small, it will sit too tightly and closely to the mane and higher the chances of rubbing against the mane. Ensure your rugs fit correctly to avoid mane loss this season. 

»Unsure how to measure or check the size of your rugs? Read our blog ‘How to Measure Your Rug Correctly’ here!


Avoid Using a Turnout Rug as a Stable Rug
Turnout rugs are designed to keep a horse dry when outdoors, meaning they lack the qualities that a stable rug typically provide. A main benefit of stable rugs is the inside quality of the rug. Many stable rugs have a polyester lining which is a material proven to improve the quality and condition of a horse’s coat. This will keep the horse’s mane in better condition and will avoid it rubbing and damaging the mane’s condition.


LeMieux Anti Rub Bib Black


Use An Anti-Rub Bib
Designed to reduce the risk of your horse’s rugs rubbing at the mane. An anti-rub bib can be used in the stable or during turnout. They offer a wither guard to help minimise friction and rubbing from their rugs. A great option is the LeMieux Anti-Rub Bib RRP £32.95. 



3. Nutrition – Feed and Supplements

If your horse is lacking nutrients, it may due to a mineral or vitamin deficiency it may delay regrow and reduce the condition of the mane. To encourage re-growth, try using some supplements jam-packed with goodness! 

Another thing to check is the quality of hay/haylage they are eating. When you soak their hay/haylage, it can sometimes draw out the nutritional elements from the food. Finding high quality hay/haylage throughout winter can be difficult. This is because as crops and foliage is at it’s poorest. Therefore, using a nutritional supplement may be the best answer for upping their nutrition.

»Browse our supplements Here.

»Browse our feed Here.


4. Get Plaiting!

A great way to keep your horse’s remaining mane from occurring more damage is by keeping them in plaits. This may be difficult for those with very sparse manes, but try to work with what you’ve got! For the areas of the mane that are unable to be plaited, we suggest to not brush or comb the hair. As hard as this may be (and as messy/scraggly this makes the mane) it reduces the amount of hair to fall out and reduces scalp damage too.


5. Avoid This When Riding…

For many riders, it is common for them to rest their hands on a horse’s neck. Whether this is because you’re a riding newbie, you’re on a relaxing hack or your holding onto the mane whilst jumping. If you find your horse’s mane is thinning or falling out, try to reduce to amount of contact with the mane as possible.

6. Mane Conditioning Products

Using products for your horse’s mane will improve the quality of the mane from root to tip. Keep your horse’s mane in great condition to reduce damage and fall-out! When you use mane conditioning products, avoid excessively brushing the mane. You could perhaps use your fingers instead for a more gentle-touch. 

A product designed to encourage hair growth is the Shapley’s Original M-T-G Treatment. Designed to target mane and tail growth, mane and tail conditioning, scratches, dry skin and much more! Shapley’s M-T-G is a tackroom staple for all horses this rubbing-season!

Another great product to use for this dreading season of mane loss is the fantastic Leovet No Rub treatment. Leovet No Rub is a highly effective lotion that can help reduce the itching of manes and tails and leave them dandruff free. Leovet No Rub contains Willow bark to renew the skin and assist in the normal peeling process.

7. No Grease, No Loss!

During the colder seasons, it is difficult for us to bath and clean our horses, and sometimes our elbow grease doesn’t always cut it when it comes to removing dirt and grease. When grease builds up in our horse’s mane, it can block the hair follicles on the neck reducing the chances of the mane to grow back. Although we don’t suggest giving your horse a full bath in this weather, we suggest giving their mane a wash only on a mild day. Use warm water, a gentle shampoo and your finger to rub the root of the mane. Voila!

You may find your turnout and stable rugs also have a build up of grease on the inner-lining. Try to regularly wash your rugs to keep the grease at bay!

8. Remove The Neck-Rubbing Source

If your horse’s mane is falling out from them rubbing it against a post or their stable we recommend finding a way to eliminate things they can use to itch their mane/neck. However, eliminating a stable wall may be quite difficult, so instead why not try to add an Anti-Weave top door grid during winter?

This only gives them room to pop their head out of a narrow gap and so will make it difficult for a horse to twist and scratch their neck against it.

Use cross-ties leadropes when tying your horse up to prevent them from be able to twist and turn their head to scratch against the wall or post.

9. Avoid Other Horses Grooming Your Horse

This may be the most difficult step to abide by if your horse is turned-out with other horses. When horses groom eachother they usually muzzle around the lower neck and withers. Therefore, another way to avoid your horse’s hair to get brittle and damaged is by preventing your horse grooming with other horses. To do this, use a fly spray around their withers so other horse’s avoid the mane area!

Has your horse’s mane suffered this Winter? If so we hope you found this blog very useful! If you have any questions please do feel free to ask us in the comments below.

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